Photo : The Islands of the Bahamas/KMG
Nothing on the horizon save a long stretch of white sand and turquoise water. One metre from the shore, rays approach us, coming close enough to brush against our feet; a little further away, small sharks swim, as if to challenge our boldness (and our faith). In the shade of the trees, Brendal Stevens, a Bahaman in charge of a diving centre on Green Turtle Cay, off Abaco (northeast of the archipelago), is cooking the crayfish that he has just fished from the ocean depths, whilst his group was admiring the underwater beauty during a snorkelling session. Time seems to have stopped this afternoon on this patch of land.
With some 700 islands and 2,400 islets, the Bahamas can boast of being home to the world’s most stunning beaches, with exceptional ocean floors and underwater fauna thanks to the presence of a coral reef, uncommonly kind inhabitants, as well as excellent tourist infrastructures. With 5 million visitors every year, tourism is a sector that makes up 60% of the GDP and two-thirds of jobs (direct and indirect).
Just a few hours from the towns of Grand Bahama (Freeport and Lucaya) or New Providence (Nassau, capital of the archipelago), contrasting with the architectural excess of Paradise Island and its famous Atlantis complex, the archipelago offers small slices of paradise. The most well known of these out islands are Abaco, Andros, Cat Island, Eleuthera, Exuma, Inagua and Long Island. Visitors come here in search of a protected natural environment and authentic villages.
It is time to leave Brendal Stevens’ Robinson Island and go to Green Turtle Cay. A stop in the village will give you a waft of New England, still redolent here in the pastel shades of the wooden houses. Most inhabitants of Abaco are in fact descendants of loyalist colonialists who remained faithful to the British crown and immigrated here following the American Revolution. The presence of islets around the main island as well as the naval activity that developed here have turned Abaco into the Bahaman leisure capital. Today, vacationers come here to rent boats, with or without permits, or to stroll from cay to cay, pausing at the coves they may encounter.
Southward bound for Eleuthera. This island owes its name – “liberty” in Greek – to the first colonists who sought refuge here in the middle of the 17th century, fleeing religious persecution in England. Eleuthera is surprising in shape; stretching over 160 kilometres in length, it is barely 2 metres wide; here, the water is never very far away… In the northern part of the island, one natural attraction is well worth seeing from the sky: the “glass window bridge”, a strip of land a few dozen metres long with the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean on one side, the shallow turquoise waters of the region on the other side.
At the far north of the island, only 15 minutes away by taxi boat, Harbour Island
– around 5 kilometres long and 800 metres wide – is rightly considered one of the
jewels of the Bahamas. Towards the north, a long pink sandy beach with two luxury hotels at its centre (see box text); towards the south, the port and village of Dunmore Town, where colonial architecture has been kept intact.
Curiously, the golf buggy has become a mode of transport on the island’s roads. This particularity makes the island appear more touristic than it actually is. For Harbour Island has managed to preserve a certain authenticity, as shown by these
examples: a little before 9 am every weekday, children from the island’s sole school sing the national anthem close to the marina, before going to class; on Sundays, inhabitants meet in one of the seven churches for Caribbean-accented services; and every evening, locals mingle with passing tourists in the bars.
One and a half hours away by private plane towards the south, Long Island offers a change of scene and the sun on full beam – the north of the island is crossed by the Tropic of Cancer. Experienced divers come here to enjoy the numerous blue holes – these underwater grottos commonly found in the Caribbean – including Dean’s Blue Hole, the deepest such hole in the world. Whilst the eastern shore, wild and rugged, presents a succession of coves and cliffs, its western facade is sprinkled with white sandy beaches, including some of the most gorgeous ones on the archipelago. And with a population density lower than 10 inhabitants per square kilometre, Long Island bears the promise of absolute serenity.
When and how to get there?
Climate: The Bahamas benefit from the Gulf Stream and a mild temperate tropical climate, with temperatures ranging from 25°C to 32°C throughout the year. Water temperature varies from 24°C in winter to 29°C in summer.
Getting there: British Airways offers 5 direct flights between London and Nassau every week. Many cities in the United States and Canada also provide services to the Bahamas. Note that various airlines including American Airlines, Bahamasair, Delta Air Lines and US Airways offer connections between Florida and Nassau, Freeport and the out islands.
Formalities: A passport valid 6 months after the return date, accompanied by a return ticket. For EU nationals, no visa is required for stays shorter than 3 months. But if stopping over in the US, make sure that you meet this country’s visa requirements.
Connections between the islands: Air connections are available from Bahamasair, but you can also rent a plane. A ferry service provides connections from Nassau to Harbour Island, Eleuthera, Andros and Abaco.
Language: English.
Currency: The Bahaman dollar is on a par with the US dollar and the two currencies are used interchangeably.
Time zone: GMT - 5 hours.
Guides: Lonely Planet, Caribbean Islands, October 2008, 27 euros.
Petit Fûté, Bahamas, September 2009, 15.95 euros.
Information: www.bahamas.fr or www.bahamas.com
Bookings
Our favourites: two hotels on Harbour Island (a 15-minute boat ride from Eleuthera). Perfect for taking advantage of the pink sandy beach!
Pink Sands, a hotel made up of 25 cottages, contemporary in decor, scattered throughout tropical gardens leading to the beach. Double rooms from 600 to 750 dollars, or 414 to 518 euros, in summer (start of May-mid-December); from 750 to 900 dollars, or 518 to 622 euros, in winter (excluding 20% tax).
www.pinksandsresort.com
Coral Sands, a hotel with 36 rooms and 4 cottages, renovated in the colonial style. Also on the seafront. Double rooms from 315 to 700 dollars, or 217 to 484 euros, in summer (start of May-mid-December); from 335 to 850 dollars, or 230 to 590 euros, in winter (excluding 20% tax).
www.coralsands.com
English 
